LED Dash Conversion
By: kakarot133
(From: http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212290)

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Original Write-Up:

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damages done to your car, yourself, or any friends and neighbors in the process of doing this conversion. That means don't blame me if your dash catches on fire or if you burn your fingers with your soldering iron. You should have a bit of electrical knowledge before you attempt this, find someone who can, or just deal with your crappy light green glow of your stock lights.

Stuff your gonna need:
7 of these LED's from www.superbrightleds.com

1 of these LED's from www.superbrightleds.com
*Note* At time of this write-up these aren't available in wide angle, the type I used in this application.

2 wires about 4 1/2 inches long
2 wires about 1 inch long
2 wires about 2 inches long
Soldering Iron
Electrical Tape
Small philips head screw driver

Air Conditioner:

1. First remove the front vents by removing the 2 screws at the bottom.

2. Remove the 4 screws holding in the AC.

3. Remove the connectors in the back, starting with the one for the dial since its the shortest.

4. Look under the unit and unscrew the clamp holding the cable down, followed by one of the screws for the slider and the cable should be easy to remove.

5. Remove the yellow connector behind the AC button and slide the AC button out by pushing from the back.

6. There are 3 clips holding the unit together - 1 on the top, 1 on the bottom, and another where the AC button was.

7. With the unit apart, you should see where the stock bulbs are. There are 3, including the one that lights up the dial.

8. Twist all the bulbs out and put them somewhere, throw them away, whatever you wanna do with them.

9. Looking at the bottom of the unit with it facing away from you, the positive contacts are: for the left socket: right contact, for the right socket: right contact. Easy enough.

10. Remove the LED's from their plastic bases (if you ordered the ones with them). The 7 black based ones are the easiest, but you may need pliers. The blue based ones are a little more difficult since they are easy to break. Just carefully wiggle the LED as you pull it out gently. It might also be a good idea to order a couple extra of both types just incase you break one. If you break one with a blue base, you might be able to use one of the smaller ones, although I don't know how the smaller ones light pattern differs with the larger ones. On the LED's, the side with the blue resistor is the positive side.

11. Solder a small LED in the left socket. Pretty straight forward, just poke it though and solder to the correct contacts.

12. The right socket is where you are gonna use some wires. Solder the 1 inch wires to a small LED and also the 4 1/2 inch wires to another.

13. Solder the shorter wires first, the right contact being the positive and position the LED so it is pointing into the clear plastic.

14. Now solder the longer wires to the same contacts and tape it to the location shown in the pic below, right above the switch on the end..

15. Cut the bulb for the dial and strip the wires. Now solder the larger LED ( or a smaller one if you don't have one, the reason I used one of these is because I happened to have one lying around and it was a better fit in the hole ) to the proper contacts, remembering that the side with the blue resistor is the positive. Then just secure it in the hole with some tape.

This is what it should look like:





Now for the AC button...

16. Release the clips on each side and it should pull apart.

17. Now, the positive contact on this socket is the one closest to the front of the unit. Solder a small LED to the remaining 2 inch wires.

18. Solder the correct wires to the correct contacts and tape the led on top of the switch, pointing it straight at the clear plastic that directs the light to the button.

19. Putting the button assembly back together was a bit tough for me since its a very tight fit. Just squeeze the piece that goes over the led to get it on without moving or changing direction.

It should look like this:


20. I would now suggest checking it out by plugging it into your car to see if it works before putting it back together.

Testing:


21. Putting the unit back together is pretty straight forward, just be careful not to disrupt any of your new soldering contacts



Okay, with the hard part out of the way, it gets easier from here.

Lets start with the Hazard/Defrost switches:

1. Pry the switches out from your console with a knife or flat head screw driver and disconnect the connectors.

*Note* I only did my defrost, if you wanna do your hazard, I would suggest using a small red LED that you can order from the same site. Positioning should be the same as the first socket described in the AC section. Also positive terminals on these two switches are the upper terminals when holding them upright.

2. Unscrew the screw from the back of the defrost switch and undo the clips and it should come apart, but not without giving you some trouble. Then twist out the lower bulb and take off the black plastic that holds the button.

3. Okay, the way you have to position this is a bit tricky, you have to position the LED on the side without the contacts and route the contacts through the socket. Then you put the black plastic piece back on, while having the LED inside, pointing straight out.

It should look like this:


4. Solder the proper contacts and put it all back together.

*Note* I had a bit of trouble with keeping it pointing straight, if it is crooked, it won't light up the whole area that needs to be lit. The thing is, when I went to put the button back on, it would move to the right and not light the whole area. Just keep prying the button off and adjusting it and sooner or later you should be able to get it to stay. Don't worry if it changes the feel of the button, it did that to mine and it still works, which is all that matters.

Next we have the Cruse/Moon roof Switches:

*Note* The positive contacts on these switches are now the lower ones, totally opposite from the other set.

5. Starting with the Cruise, unscrew the small screw, pry the clips, pry the button, and remove the circuit and switch.

6. Twist out the left bulb and poke the LED from the opposite side of the contacts since it cannot fit through the small socket.

7. Solder the correct contacts and put everything back together.

8. Now, I must warn you, when taking apart the moon roof switch, be careful you don't loose the springs and the sliders. Just take it apart like all the others, just be careful.

9. Position the LED same as above with the cruise and solder the contacts.

They should look like this:


Now if your springs and sliders came out this is how they go back in:


10. Put everything back and test them out. If done right they should work. Congratulations, you've just personalized your dash to your liking. Now give your lude a much needed test drive...



 

 

 

ALOT EASIER WAY TO DO IT!
By: Pimpstecy
(From: http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273043)

Instead of soldering and removing a bunch of parts till you see the circuit boards and all that, there's an even easier way to do it now.

I will make this ALOT simpler and all in 1 thread with the gauge lights as well:
(sorry guys but I will be using your pics)

Parts Needed for everything (Gauge lights, Climate Control, and panel lights such as Sunroof, Cruise and Defrost buttons)

4x T10 Wedge LED Bulbs
5x T5 Wedge LED bulbs
6x T3 NEO Wedge LED Bulbs
2x T4 NEO Wedge LED Bulbs

The NEO wedged LEDs have a circular base that screws in and is a direct replacement to the stock bulb. here is are the examples:



This is a T10 (T5s are thinner but same design):



Now to start with the gauges write-up with some info taken from Phily87's write up (http://www.preludepower.com/forums/s...d.php?t=241769)

if you need help on removing the cluster itself from the car simply go here:
http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...f100/16-82.pdf

Now once the cluster is removed you can see at the back where the bulbs can be changed:



Simply twist the BIG brown base to take the bulb out of the cluster then pull the bulb straight out of the base. the T10 Wedge Bulbs are a direct replacement fit. The 2 smaller brown base are for the T5 bulbs. here's what the bulbs look like: (Ignore my dirty hand, I was working on the car all day)



On the TOP of the cluster there are 2 more T5 bulbs used to shine over the gauges:



If you wish to change the "car" icon in your dash then there are 2 things you might be seeing. If you have an automatic you will have a separate "cluster" for the car and the gears, but if you have a standard like mine you will have to literally remove the whole circuit board from the back. (The board is held by many screws and undoing the "copper" screws in the middle will also make your gauges loose in the front so watch out not to damage them. There are also 2 plastic clips holding the circuit board in place.)

If you have an automatic then simply follow the steps from the previous walk-through:



You will then see this (It is a similar looking pattern on the Standard but the bulbs look like tiny Dildos. best description I could give lol...)



Only replace the bulb that has the blue cover on it. Personally I used a T10 Bulb here but you can use a T5 bulb (Note: my inventory at the top was based on using a T10 here and not a T5)
simply pull out the bulb from the base and you will need to pull down the metal wires from the LED like so:


Use that in the base that is already there. For the standard version it's impossible to use the base that comes with it. What I did was remove the long shaft and kept the square base. I also removed the rubber bar that was in the hole I just created by removing the shaft. Then all I did was put a wire in each of the metal holes and "twist" bulb until the round part of the base of the LED was snug in the newly created hole of the base. (It seemed to hold so I left it like that but you could be safer and actually try to stick it to the rubber base with glue or tape)

YOU ARE NOW DONE WITH THE CLUSTER!!!!

 

Now for the instrument panel around the cluster:

Simply pop the button assembly out of the dash and then disconnect the buttons at the back. If you look at the back of these buttons, here are the tiny NEO Wedge bulbs that can be replaced. Simply twist them out and put in the 5 T3 NEO Wedge bulb you bought. (Note: I did not replace the hazard one as it's supposed to be red and not blue.)

(Sorry for shitty quality. The white circles are the bulbs)

NOW THE ONLY THING LEFT IS THE CLIMATE CONTROL UNIT!!!


YOU DON'T EVEN NEED TO OPEN UP THE UNIT!

Once you pulled it out of the car and removed the connectors and the temperature cable there are 4 Bulbs to change.
By looking underneath the unit you will see 2 more white circles which are the 2x T4 NEO Wedge bulbs.

Behind the vent Intensity knob there is a black connector connected to a red and black wire. Like the other simply twist it out and replace the bulb with the last T5 bulb you should have.

Finally push out the AC button unit from the back of the climate control unit (It just slide out) and look under it. you will see the Final T3 NEO Wedge white circle to be changed.

YOU NOW HAVE LED BULBS WITH NO SOLDERING REQUIRED!!



Extra Note: there are 2 more T5 that could be replace in the plastic cover that goes over the gauge cluster. The bulbs are at the bottom where they flash over the headlight and fog light switches and the dash light dimmer on the other side. These bulbs are very hard to put back in and would be even harder with a big LED in that socket. The choice is yours but I did not include them in my Inventory/Write-up.