4WS Toe Adjustment

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Start by removing the torx bolt on the 4WS rack and installing whatever you are using to lock it.

With the 4WS gearbox locked in its center position take a look at your steering wheel. It should be centered. If it's just a hair off leave it, if it's off more than 6° remove it then put it back on as close to center as possible. After this remove your 4WS lock tool and reinstall the torx bolt. Turn the steering wheel to center if it is still off a bit.

If the wheel is now centered install your steering wheel holder:

To adjust the toe we are going to build a box around the car with the jack stands, pipe, and string. The string itself is going to run parallel to the centerline of the car and is what we will measure off of.

First you need to set up the pipe/conduit. You should already have two lengths at least 71" long.
On each one you need to drill two holes 70" apart, it's very important you are accurate with this. The holes should also be just large enough to slip your string through.

Now do the following setup at each end of the car. Clamp the clamps onto the jack stands and set the pipe on the clamps:

Run the string from the holes on one bar all the way to the holes on the other. You don't need to tie the other side. Just slip it through the hole, pull tight, and wrap the string around the pipe a bunch of times.
Once they are attached slide the jacks away from the car a bit so the string is pulled tight. At this point you should have something looking like this:

Measure from the ground up to the center of the hub. On my wheels/tires it comes to 11 1/4":

Now go around the car and play with the notches and clamps on the jack stands until the height of the string matches the height of the middle of the hubs. It will probably take a few passes around the car before you get everything just right:

Using your accurate ruler measure from one of the front hubs out to the string. Go to the wheel on the other side of the car and measure that side. Slide the pipe back and forth on the jack stands until the left and right side measurement is the same:

Now do the same thing for the back wheels. The measurement will be larger than the front wheels because the rear track is narrower. That's ok, all that matters is that the measurement is the same between the left and right side of the car:

You will notice when you adjust one end it throws the other off a little. Just keep switching between each end of the car making small adjustments until the left-right measurements are the same front and rear. You need to be accurate here, get the measurements as close to even as you can. Once you get everything even side to side write down the front and rear measurements. If you snag the string while doing the alignment this will help you get everything back in place quickly.

At this point the whole setup should look like this:

The string is now level with the hubs and running parallel to the centerline of the car.

Start adjusting the toe at the front wheels. Measure from the forward end of the rim out to the string, I have 42mm here:

Switch to the back end of the rim. I've got 48.5mm:

So I've got 42mm at the front and 48.5mm at the rear. This means the wheel has toe-out because the distance is smaller at the front than the rear.
For the front wheels you are going for 0° toe so all you need to do is adjust the tie rod until the front and rear measurement is the same.

To make the adjustment loosen the lock nut (19mm) then using a 12mm wrench turn the tie rod to pull or push the rear of the wheel in or out:

Here I've adjusted the toe to 0°:

Once you tighten the 19mm nut back down check the measurements again to make sure they weren't changed.

Now for the rear wheels:

Adjustment is just like the front.

Loosen the 19mm lock nut and use a 14mm wrench on the tie rod:

Each of the rear wheels calls for -0.097° of toe-in which we will just call -0.10° to make things simpler.

Now I had wrote a huge bit on how wheel size affects what measurements you need to get exactly -0.10°. But honestly it was getting too complicated and in real terms it just doesn't matter that much.
If you are interested you can read the snippet here.

All you really need to know is on any 14"-17" wheel set the rear toe-in to -1/64" or -0.5mm. This will put you somewhere in the -0.025° to -0.075° toe range. A little bit on the low side but that is OK.

Example: When you measure the front and rear end of the wheel your front measurement is 1/64" or 0.5mm greater than the rear.

"Pssst! Hey! Can you just set the rear toe to 0° like the front?"

Yes, that's actually what I do. But keep in mind this could cause the rear end to wander a bit under hard braking or it might follow imperfections in the road surface more.

Got all that? Time for Final Checks.